Hot Topics - Notices

Bradenton - Sarasota Rose Society
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Affiliated with American Rose Society and ARS Deep South District

Hot Topics - Special Notices

This section of our Web Site is dedicated to getting information to our member community rapidly. It will be used in the following ways:

Notice of changes to schedules, committee meetings or other information that must get to all members as quickly as possible;
Alerts about rose problems, some new, and other not so new but still endemic. In addition to notifications look for what can best be done about these problems.
Notices of upcoming events that will be of interest to local Rosarians.
Short listing of To-Dos in the Rose Garden for the current month
Latest reports about the status and stock of local and not so local but heavily used suppliers frequented by B-SRS members.

Stay tuned to this corner of our web site where these notices will appear.

Please HELP US : If you find that notices on this page are not correct or outdated please let us know by contacting us at Info@B-SRS.ORG so we can make the necessary corrections.

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The NEXT Member's Meeting is
Sat Jun 23
2:30 PM
Potluck Meeting
Revised : What`s New In Roses
John Hardin

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ALERTS

Unknown Pest Resembling Downy Mildew

Update 12/1/2010

Unlike the chili thrip problem which involved the identification of a known pest which �arrived� in Florida, there is no certain �name� for the new problem which may be either a mutation or introduction of a foreign pathogen. All that we can recommend is to become familiar with the symptoms. This problem develops very rapidly<

Sample of plants have been brought to the Florida Institure of Food Agricultural Sciences in Wimauma, but they were unable to identify the organism after two weeks.

We need to concentrate on the symptoms. Research has turned up reports on the web from professional growers with simialr symptoms in as varied locations as roses nurseries in Japan to a tree farm in Vancouver. One article states that anyone who does not understand the source of the problem �will continue to use ineffective remedies with no results�.

Immediately below is a list of symptoms to aid in recognition. Do not wait for all of the symptoms to act. A short list of responses follow the symptoms. We plan to update this notice as we learn more.

symptoms
Photos will be added to aid you in recognizing some of the symptoms below. The symptoms have been compared to :

a form of �dieback� which attacks �with a vengeance� and can kill a bush, often within a week.
root rot (normally a �greenhouse� or seedling problem) ,
downy mildew,
blister rust,
canker.
A consistent symptom is the appearance of lesions or bruises on the middle of stems, the lesion may first be noticed as a light rose color and then progress to black. The lesions spread both up and down the canes. Once started, the entire cane can turn black or dark brown in less than a week. If the stems blacken to the graft it is unlikely the plant will recover.
The symptoms are frequently encountered after a rainy period,
Unlike Downy Mildes this pathogen but can occur at any temperature .
Roots may be over-hydrated.
After pruning, new leaf sets appear mutated.
Old Garden roses appear to not be as susceptible as modern roses. Knockouts are susceptible,
An additional symptom, which may or may not be related is the sudden appearance of �pale circles� on leaves below).

Responses / Remedies If you have identified the symptoms you need to act quickly. The pathogen is believed to be an oomycete , not a fungus, so most fungicides are not effective. The following have worked and there are no reports of resistance developing for any of the listed. If you have an affected plant do all of the following and repeat until the problem is resolved.

Infected canes (those with lesions) should be cut off at a point just below lowest die back (green part of cane). If either side of the cut sides displays damage cut further down Do it just as soon as observed, time works against you.
Immediately bag and remove all blackened rose canes as well as the roots.
Bag and remove all cut rose material. GET IT OUT OF THE GARDEN! Spray affected plants and all the ground around the plant with a copper based fungicide. CuPro ® (a fungicide / bactericide) is the affordable fungicide of choice but any other copper spray product can be used to kill the pathogen if you do not have CuPro ®. Do NOT mix CuPro ® with any other chemical when spraying.
Follow the directions on the label exactly!
Be very careful of any chemical contact with body, especially the eyes. Wear protective gear , these are harsh chemicals.
Spray leaves and ground around the plant with fungicides containing mancozeb or manzate (either of these can be mixed with other spray ingredients except for copper and alliette).
If you do not have the symptoms you can practice avoidance techniques when you prune your roses in the next two months : Spray canes and ground heavily with CuPro ®
Remove all leaf liter and dead canes from your beds.

Additional information is in the Deember 2010 Bulletin.
It is important to note that a critical step is to have the necessary spray material on hand before it is needed. CuPro ® can be obtained from Rosemania, Southern Ag, and is on order at Mariposa. Liquid Copper is a more expensive alternative and is available at Home Depot, Lowes.

Images (pictures) of damage.

TWO NEW THRIPS
The Chilli pepper thrip is a pest which is new to Southwest florida, believed to have arrived in the Palm Beach area in Octobert 2005. This pest attacks all plants and is a foliage feeder.
Symptoms inlude: curled leaves which then shed, fresh buds become brittle and drop off.
The chilli thrip eggs hatch after 6-8 days, the larval stage lasts 6-7 days and the pupal stages 2-3 days. Adults live up to 22 days with an average life span of 11 days. Once infestation occurs the plants need to be treated for all stages of development, and since the thrips are not specific to roses, plants near the roses also need to be treated.
Identification of the thrips is difficult. For a detailed description check the Pest Alert from THE Florida Department of Agriculture. Check "September in the Rose Garden" (in our September 2006 bulletin) for steps that have proven succesful localy in combating the thrips. As additional information becomes available it will be identified on this site.
If the Chili thrips were not enough there is also a report in "September in the Rose Garden" about red banded thrips, our newest invasive pest in Southwest Florida.

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Watch for update on Phillipi Gardens Demonstration Rose Garden

Checklist for May

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This listing is an abbreviated version of Connie's Checklist for May.
For a more details check page 3 of the May Bulletin.

Water is the most important ingredient for growing good roses. If rainfall is scarce, at least three waterings a week of one inch each time will be absolutely necessary. Roses in pots should be watered every other day. Mulch helps to conserve moisture retention, keeps weeds suppressed and keeps the soil cooler but it NEVER makes adequate watering unnecessary.
Early mornings and evenings are the best times in your garden for deadheading. Remove spent blooms to encourage re-blooming. Always cut down to an outer set of a five leaf leaflet and about one fourth of an inch above the bud eye. Leave at least two sets of leaves at the bottom of the stem.
When cutting blooms for the house, take a pail of water in the garden and when you have cut the blooms, immediately put them in a pail of water up to their necks. Allow them to soak in this water for at least several hours and then recut the ends of the stems under water (at least one half inch off).
Blackspot is ever present when rainfall increases during hot summer months. Always water in the mornings so that foliage will be dry before evening. A regular spray program must be maintained to keep your foliage protected. It is easier to spray for prevention than it is to spray to cure blackspot so be consistent in your spraying habits. If Chili thrips are still hanging around your garden (wrinkled, �burnt� leaves) then Conserve is the insecticide of choice. It can be mixed in with your regular fungicide spray. Another disease in the rose garden, an algae, is called Downy Mildew. It looks similar to blackspot in the early stages but it begins on the new growth at the top of the bush whereas blackspot begins on the older leaves at the bottom of the bush. When you have Downy, even the canes on your rosebushes will have purple splotches on them. If this disease is not kept in check it will devastate your garden. Vinny Celeste has used the product called Aliette which he mixes in with his regular fungicide.
At this time powdery mildew should not be a problem but some may still find it in their gardens. Rubigan is the most effective fungicide for powdery mildew or you can remove the infected leaves and just wait for the temperatures to heat up.
Take time to make sure bushes are staked properly as the hurricane season will be fast approaching. A four-foot length of a rebar iron rod covered with an old piece of green hose makes an excellent stake. Tie the rose bush securely to the rebar below the bud union using green, plastic, stretch tape.
Yellow leaves may be occurring somewhat on bushes now. That is a natural process of shedding older leaves BUT too many yellow leaves means there is a problem. Keep a close watch on your bushes and keep your good cultural practices ongoing on a consistent basis.
Insects are seasonal. Aphids should be minimal and can be controlled by watering your bushes with a steady, hard stream from your hose or water wand. But thrips and caterpillars may be present. Spot spray thrips with a hand-held pump sprayer on the buds only (Orthene can be used).
Spider mites, warm and dry weather go hand in hand. A dull, silvery appearance to leaves and a salt and pepper backing on the leaves means leaves will begin to fall off if you do not take action. Flush off your bushes with a water wand the day you notice spider mites. Repeat the procedure every couple of days for at least a week to ten days until foliage appears healthier. If drastic action is needed, Avid is the miticide of choice. Follow label directions. Spray Avid alone. Do not mix it in with other fungicide chemicals.
Generous amounts of organics in the soil, broken down by the microorganisms (added in Jan or Feb) act to buffer alkaline water so plants can take in the nutrients better. Continue your regular bi-weekly fertilization program

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STATUS OF NURSERIES

This section depends heavily upon information supplied by nurseries and mail order suppliers. Please pay attention to the effective as of dates.

STATUS OF NURSERIES

Hardin's Nursery	Tampa partner Hardin's Nursery Product Page

MRT Venice	MRT Venice

Orban's - Crowders Brothers	Call Orban's for any rose you find on their product listing. If they are in stock they will be delivered to Crowders in 3 days. Orban's - Crowders Brothers

Orban's - Crowders Brothers - Lakewood Ranch	Orban's - Crowders Brothers - Lakewood Ranch

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This Page Last Updated : 3/10/2010